Hi welcome to Taiga Bonzai, in this article we discuss the bureaucracy bought into being on the use of peat and the problems it is said to create via carbon release.

Introduction – evidence indicates that the use of peat also known as turf dates back to Roman times, where it was used for domestic purposes – heating and cooking. In the 7th century peat continued to play a significant economic role in countries where trees were scarce for example, Ireland, Scotland, the Netherlands and Estonia.

From a biological viewpoint peat is the formation of plant material that has not fully decayed in acidic or anaerobic conditions. It is comprised of wetland vegetation, bog plants, mosses, sedges, and shrubs. Peat as it forms holds water, which slowly creates wetter conditions allowing the area of wetland to become more extensive.

Peat is harvested usually in blocks (briquettes) is left to dry prior to being used and in some countries it is used today on an industrial scale to generate electricity; elsewhere peat is mainly used in horticultural applications.

The hue and cry – peat is unique to natural areas referred to as mires, bogs, moors or muskegs. These which cover approximately 3% of the global land surface are highly significant to global efforts in combating climate change.

According to environment correspondent Matt McGrath “Peat is the most efficient carbon sink on the planet, because peatland plants capture carbon dioxide (CO₂) naturally released from the peat, maintaining an equilibrium.” Meaning that the carbon stays in the bog, locked away from the atmosphere, but it takes thousands of years for peatlands to develop.

In the UK there has been a huge drive by the government’s Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (Defra) to phase out the use of peat by both amateur and professional gardeners, their argument is as follows:

“When we mine peat for gardening we unlock those reserves of stored carbon and three things then happen:

1. A peat bog is drained prior to mining. It immediately starts emitting greenhouse gases. After mining, the remaining peat continues to release carbon dioxide and methane into the atmosphere

2. The carbon in peat, when spread on a field or garden, quickly turns into carbon dioxide, adding to greenhouse gas levels

3. The unique biodiversity of peat bogs is lost. Rare birds, butterflies, dragonflies and plants disappear. It is much harder to restore a peat bog than to replant a forest.”

In 2011, the UK government set voluntary targets to end sales of peat-based compost for domestic use by 2020. Natural Environment Minister Richard Benyon stated that “The horticultural industry has made real progress in reducing peat use, but I want to see peat eliminated from the amateur gardener market by 2020”.

In a letter to Environment secretary George Eustace, signed by TV gardeners Alan Titchmarsh, Kate Bradbury and James Wong, “this has been an abject failure.”

Others supporting this argument are a few garden centres including B&Q and the Blue Diamond group of garden centres, who sated they were committed to phasing out peat but gave no date as to when. Asda, Lidl and others said they had targets to reduce peat sales but not yet to end them. Wyvale Garden Centres, Morrisons and Sainsbury’s have yet to respond to the survey.

Nonetheless, gardeners love peat because it delivers superb results in gardening, but some argue that peat is not the only way to get organic matter into soil. Moreover it is not even the best way; so why is it making a comeback?

Because it’s cheap, peat bogs are cheap to buy – cheaper than farmland. You drain them, dig out the peat, put it in a bag and it’s ready to sell. Nothing sustainable can compete with peat on price, so it enjoys fat profit margins. Profit margins that the above mentioned garden centres will not relinquish; does the word hypocrisy spring to mind here.

But is there an alternative to peat? – Carbon Gold was created by Craig Sams, founder of Green & Blacks Chocolate, in 2007 as an organic, peat-free planting aid for the retail sector. The company has created composts that mimic the properties of peat. Peat is a blend of black carbon and lignin the fibrous woody matter. Whereas black carbon is made by using charcoal making techniques that convert woody materials into pure horticultural carbon or ‘biochar’.

According to a Sams spokesperson, “We blend it with lignin-rich woody material such as coir from coconut husks, to reproduce the profile of peat.” “It works as well as peat in the garden and it stays there much longer, the carbon in biochar remains for centuries and is porous, so it represents a long-term investment in improved soil fertility.” The Sams spokesperson added that, “Commercial organic growers, who are looking for a high-performing peat-free alternative, are adopting it on an increasing scale.”

But carbon gold is expensive over 23€ for 20kg and this does not include the cost of delivery, much more than the price of peat – the above cost may seem trivial but much depends on the amount required.

Finland is the world’s leading manufacturer of peat supplies and according to recent reports, said Finnish government is now looking at ways to reduce its peat consumption. But at what cost and to whom? Moreover, since the recent pandemic (C19) took hold unemployment has risen, prices have sky-rocketed as products have diminished. Hence 30 million new gardeners have joined the horticulture brigade and the numbers are increasing.

Perhaps peat harvesting will eventually be phased out, but many arguments and debates on this issue both for and against remain. Taiga Bonzai’s policy is not to get involved in controversy, but to bring to our readers attention issues that concern all aspects of horticulture. In the next article we discuss why flora needs carbon, until next time, BW, Nik.

Hi welcome to Taiga Bonzai, in this post we discuss the purpose of fertilizer, often misunderstood and misused.

Introduction – the consensus that fertilizer is a source of food is a misnomer, because plants produce their own food in the form of sugars via photosynthesis and moisture from the soil. The minerals in fertilizer provide the ingredients needed for photosynthesis and growth, when minerals are deficient or absent in the soil, fertilizer is added to maintain an adequate supply.

Plants – in their natural settings are able to survive quite well mainly due to their root systems, which have the ability to spread and travel great distances in search of moisture and nutrients. But bonsai are confined to relatively small containers and thus are restricted from this practice therefore, they require fertilization.

The questions of which fertilizer to use, solid or liquid, what is the dosage rate and how often to use it. One might assume it would be relatively straightforward and this is where mistakes are made. Which in many cases cannot be undone; hence a little more thought on the subject is required.

The pH factor – the first step is understanding from where the plant originates and the soil type in which it is grown be it ericaceous (coniferous) or organic (deciduous) and the relevant pH factor. These are important steps in the learning curve hence, knowing, which directive to adopt; especially for those new to bonsai horticulture.

Soils – of course many horticulturists make there own soil compositions depending on the species and their specific needs. Some use Akadama (akadamatsuchi, red ball earth) a naturally occurring, granular clay mineral. This can be used as a soil medium for both deciduous and coniferous species. Other clays are Seramis, Turface and Oil-Dri that are fired clays. Whilst others will use soil from the same location of where the plant originated; if at all possible.

However, there are other factors to consider, because soil contains a multitude of living organisms that consume, digest, and cycle nutrients. These include archaea, bacteria, actinomycetes, fungi, (mycorrhiza) algae, protozoa. Plus a wide range of insects; mites, nematodes, earthworms and ants.

All of which are important to the vitality of a soil composition. Such organisms are classed as either acidophiles, (that thrive under acidic conditions) Neutrophiles (that exist in a neutral pH environment) and Alkaliphiles. (a class of extremophilic microbes capable of survival in alkaline environments)

Another factor is the balance or imbalance of a soil’s chemical structure. The three primary nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Secondary nutrients include sulphur, calcium and magnesium, minor nutrients consist of iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum and chlorine. Soils with high acidity may have toxic amounts of aluminium and manganese.

Nitrogen (N) is essential for growth and a necessary part of chlorophyll helping plants photosynthesise. Phosphorus (P) is needed for the development of flowers, fruits, and root systems. Potassium (K) keeps roots healthy, aids in the flowering/fruiting process and assists in aiding plants tolerate stress to some degree through periods of drought. Therefore, a soil test kit is advisable to check the balance between them.

Having conducted a soil test and determined the balance or imbalance one can select a fertilizer that will give you the correct amount of nutrients required. On any package of fertilizer be it powder, granulated or liquid there are three numbers that correspond to the amounts of nutrients in the product.

For example, 5-5-5 is referred to as a balanced fertilizer due to (N) (P) and (K) having equal quantities. Other fertilizers may show a different numbering for example, 4-10-6, which indicates that (N) is low (P) is high and (K) is medium. This numbering system is the same for all manufactured fertilizer products regardless of their form.

However, different species require fertilizers suitable to their needs for example, conifers are not considered to be heavy feeders. Hence one annual application of a complete garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 16-8-8 will suffice. This can be applied in early spring before the plants break dormancy, or in late autumn.

Deciduous trees and shrubs require a more well-balanced fertilizer, in which the three main nutrients are closer in proportion, such as 10-10-10, that provides nitrogen for green healthy foliage, phosphorus and potassium for flowering, fruiting and root development.

Applying fertilizer – how often are bonsai trees fertilized due to their confinement? There are a lot of arguments on this topic because all species are individuals each having their own requirements. Some advocate a weekly basis whilst others state fortnightly or monthly is adequate. In addition, fertilizer should be given sparingly after watering has taken place.

The general consensus that bonsai can or should be fertilized during the entire growing season from early spring to mid-autumn has logic. However, older mature trees are often fertilized less frequently. Much depends on the species, time of year, stage of development and health; indoor trees can be fertilized all year round. The problem with over fertilization boosting the (N)-(P)-(K) levels can weaken and stress out a plant often causing its demise.

Which form of fertilizer to use, powdered, granulated or liquid? – There are many different opinions from all quarters on this subject. Some argue that liquid is better because it is instantaneous, but it usually drains out of the bottom of the container although much depends on the quantity given.

Others maintain that a top dressing of powdered fertilizer is better as it penetrates into the soil after watering. Although the majority of the particles will remain in the pot there will be a loss due to drainage. Some plumb for granules tiny pellets that are mixed in the soil when the container is being prepared, these are slow release and are preferred by many.

Another factor to consider is the cost of fertilizer, many fertilizers if in liquid form normally come in small bottles and if purchasing online the cost of shipment is added increasing the overall price. A 250ml bottle diluted 4 times (1.5 litres) will not last long during a season although much depends how many trees are in the collection and how often they are fertilized.

Whereas half a teaspoon of granulated (slow release) added to the soil medium at repotting time will last at least two seasons. If one is unsure of what fertiliser to use, the well known horticulturist and TV presenter Alan Titchmarsh gives a good presentation on this subject. (link to his presentation is given below)

As stated fertilizer is ‘not food’ nor is it a ‘one-size-fits-all’ it is a way of replenishing the nutrients within the soil medium which the plant needs for healthy growth. All species are different and require a specific level of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) to sustain this.

Hence it is advisable to do a soil test before purchasing fertilizer, because there has to be an accepted balance between (N), (P) and (K) for each species, this does not mean to say that you need an assortment of fertilizers far from it; one for conifers and one for deciduous will suffice. Until next time, BW, Nik.